1900s-1910s

INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION

1750-1850

The revolution expanded in all England, because of the increases of using the machines steam, so this brought a lot of fabric, especially in the textile sector and mills.

So they have passed from agrarian, handicrafts to machine and manufacture.

Meanwhile the number of factories increased, persons from the countryside started to move into the towns looking for better paid work.


The salary of a farm worker was very low, there were less jobs working on farms because of the invention of new machines.Also thousands of new workers were needed to work machines in mills and the factory owners built houses for them.

Cities filled to overflowing and London was particularly bad.

Many cities, like London as well, were not prepared for this great increase in people.  People crowded into already crowded houses.

During the REVOLUTION, there was a progress of electric SAW MACHINE.

                                            Various factory workers were children.

 They often work a lot, and most of them were treated badly by the supervisors.Majority children’s started work, between the edges of four or five years old. A young child could not receive much, but even a few pence would be enough to buy food.

 Here are a few movie about this age:

The story centers on a European coal mining town during the Industrial Revolution, and the exploited workers who strike in protest against the owgeorner of the mine.

 “Modern Times” is a classic 1936 Charlie Chaplin film. In this award-winning romantic comedy, the Tramp (an American factory worker) struggles to live in  a modern industrial society–with the help of a young homeless woman. This hilarious black-and-white.

VICTORIA ERA

 Queen Victoria was born on May the 24^th 1819 and died on January the 22th 1901

She get married to  Prince Albert in 1839

Queen Victoria she reigned for 64 years , until she died in the 1901.

In this era there was a development of styling :

•  1830s: the corset was very important for woman to wear it, because it describe sensuality and femininity

 

It wasn’t very healthy  to wear it  because  deformed the internal organs making it impossible to draw deep breath, in or out of a corset.

•  1840s: woman's dresses were very simple with large puff sleeves.Usually used flower trim on their gowns and also under it they were petticoats, corsets and chemises.   

here it shows the lowered waistline and full, rounded chest popular in the latter 1840s (compare to the waistline of the 1841 styles).

• 1850s: the  wearability of the petticoat passed away, and there were an expansion of skirts and the use of crinoline. 

The day dress had a solid bodice, and evening one, had gowns had a very low neckline and were worn off the shoulder with shawls. 

In the mean's one we can see rounded chest over a low waist. The cutaway morning coat (left) is worn with trousers trimmed with braid down the outer seam. Shirts have short straight collars and are worn with narrow neckties tied in wide bows. 

Half-boots have short heels. Coat sleeves are cut long, showing very little shirt cuff.

•  1860s: the skirts became flatter at the front and projected out more behind the woman. 

The  day dresses had wide pagoda sleeves and high necklines with lace or tatted collars, and the evening dresses had low necklines and short sleeves, and were worn with short gloves or fingerless lace or crocheted mitts.

George sala in this pic.wears an overcoat with black velvet collar, wide lapels, and deep cuffs over a frock coat, waistcoat, and tweed trousers. 

He wears leather gloves and carries a top hat.

 

• 1870s: the tea rise up, was very popular for taking the tea in the afternoon and the bustles were used to replace the crinoline to hold the skirts up behind the woman, even for "seaside dresses.
• The crinoline was replaced by the bustle in the rear.  
  
  

Small hats were perched towards the front of the head, over the forehead. In this stage the fad of hoop skirts had faded and women strives for a slimmer style. 

 

  The dresses were very tight around the corseted torso and the waist and upper legs; in fact women who could neither sit not climb stairs in their tight dresses. 

 This image shows a fur-lined overcoat (left) and double-breasted topcoat (right) with braid trim and decorative top stitching.

trousers were quite fashionable.

• 1880s: riding habits had a matching jacket and skirt (without a bustle), a high-collared shirt or chemisette, and a top hat with a veil.

Hunting costumes had draped ankle-length skirts worn with boots or gaiters. 

Clothing worn when out walking had a long jacket and skirt, worn with the bustle, and a small hat or bonnet. Travelers wore long coats like dusters.

• 1890s: Women's wear in the last decade of the Victorian Era was characterized by elevated collars, held in place by collar stays, and stiff steel boning in long line bodices.

He is wearing  breeches and high boots with a reddish collared waistcoat and a brown coat.

THE EXPOSITION UNIVERSELL 

The exposition universell of 1900 was a world's fair detained in Paris, from 15 April to 12 November 1900.

 Basically is the  celebration of the achievements of the past century and to accelerate development into the next.

The fair displayed, in view of over 50 million people, many machines, inventions, and architecture that are now (nearly) universally known, including; escalators, the Eiffel Tower, Ferris wheels, Russian Nesting Dolls, Campbell's Soup, Diesel engines, talking films, and the Telegraphone.

The style that was  present in the  Exposition Universelle it was :

ART NOVEAU

The “New Art” is a style that arose to develop in the 1880s and became fashionable in Europe and the United States during the 1890s.

The art form takes inspiration from the natural world, drawing references from botanical studies and deep sea organisms,fluid twisting, curving lines and a “whiplash” effect are the trademarks of the natural art form.

 The art form took shape in works ranging from painting to sculpture and most notably architecture, appearing famously throughout the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle.

Structures such as the Porte Monumentale entrance

the Pavillon Bleu and the Grand and Petit Palais were oriented around the Art Nouveau period.]

Though Art Nouveau was showcased in the 1900 Exposition it was minutely used in the 1889 Paris Exposition by Emile Galle in a glass work project.

The small piece was the beginning of a massive fair to come based very much on the art form.

EDWARDIAN ERA

Edwardian era starts from1901 to 1910

It supposed to be King Edward VII.

He succeed to the throne after the death of his mother Victoria, putting at an the Victorian Era.

As the century changes, so did the design trend.

 A list of what happened from the 1900s to the 1910s:

-1800 introducing of jackets, then in 1900 they became enormously popular.

-The skirt were really fitted at the hips and flaring at the hem.

-1901 the skirts had decorated hems with ruffles of fabric and lace.

-1904 skirt became fuller and less tight-fitting.

-in 1905-1907 they presented waistline rose.

-1910 lingerie dresses, tea gowns through soft fabric, festooned with ruffles and lace.

In 1890’ the corset became an unique piece not dividing the bust:

-1904 lousing spreads to the sides bodice.

-included high necks in lace or light fabric.

-evening wear bodice was had a sweet heart or square shaped neckline.

-first the sleeve fit tightly al the top of the arm, filled  toward the lower end and gathered into a skintight cuff.

-1900-1905 the fullness at the wrist end up, but this time it was wide at the top.

-they were full on the top until 1909. Then the Leg of Muttun came.

-1910 they adopted the kimono sleeve.

:Edwardian wedding gowns

Women they wore tall, rigid collars ;women's wide hats with full "Gibson Girl

" hairstyles.

A new silhouette announced by the couturiers of Paris late in the decade report the approaching abandonment of the corset as an essential garment of fashionable women.

A quick tutorial in case you may want to try it.

 SUFFRAGETTES

Suffragettes are basically supposed to be the first revolution of movement  in all the 20th  century .

It supposed to be the woman’s liberation (as for me it needs still a lot of work).

It’s based  on organizing protests, women that want to change the story, as they won’t be put at the same level of the men’s , not being only considered like housewife’s and housekeepers, however they want to work in fabric, in lands, voting etc…

The only way to make them to be considered  it was doing something scandalous like wear pants, doing protests, riding bicycles, riding horses etc..

They adopted Purple which means Dignity, White means Purity and Green means Hope . This colors  should be votes for Women’s colors.

If we remember Emily Davison that she died during a horserace on the 5th of June 1913.

PRE-RAPHALITE
The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood or better known as only Pre-Raphaelites.

It was set by English painters, poets and critics.

 They were 7 members  founded in 1848 by William Holman Hunt (2 April 1827-7 September 1910 he was a painter)

 John Everett Millais (June 1829-13 august 196, he was a painter and illustrator) 

 and Dante Gabriel Rossetti(12 may 1828-9 April 1882, he was a painter, an illustrator and translator).

Their purposes were to reform the art of who succeeded by Michelangelo and Raphael.

They wished for the return of intense colors and complex composition of 400 Italian art.

This artist were part of the development for the Liberty 

department.

The Liberty shop Department was located in center London, Oxford Circus – Central, Bakerloo and Victoria lines
Piccadilly Circus – Piccadilly and Bakecrloo lines

The  shop  has been opened since 1875.  The founder was Arthur Lesenby Liberty, before he named it, it was called the Eastern Bazaar..

 It sells a varied series of  women’s, men’s and children’s clothes, cosmetics and fragrances, jewellery, accessories, homeware, furniture, stationery and gifts.  

Liberty is known all over the world for its famous floral and graphic prints, and commercial fabrics coming from the Orient( clothes as well), stationery and popular brand collaborations.

In the 1890s Arthur Lasenby Liberty got in relationships with many famous English designers. Many of these designers were having the styles known as Arts  Art Nouveau and the Pre Raphalite  artist, and he helped in developing the Art Nouveaux . The company became associated with this new style, to the extent that in Italy, Art Nouveau became known as the Stile Liberty, after the London shop.

The store became one of the most prestigious in London.

BALLET RUSSES

The Ballets Russes was a ballet company founded in 1909 Russian Serge Diaghilev.

The workforce of the company included the best dancers from the two most important theaters: the Moscow Bolshoi Theatre and Mariinsky Theatre St. Petersburg.

The initial intention of Diaghilev was to export the technicality and Russian art in Western Europe, but it turned out that he had the idea, which was merged with that of Italian artists, French and Spanish, led to the creation of a team composed of the most important personalities of the caliber, to name a few, Picasso, Claude Debussy and Vaclav Nijinsky.

The great vitality of the Ballets Russes made ​​its way through the next two decades, so much so that it became the most influential ballet company of the twentieth century.

PAUL POIRET

 He was born on April 8 1979.

He’s parents were drapers in the Les Hallles district.

When he was young after doing his exams, he’s father sent him to a famous umbrella-maker as an errand boy, hoping that he might learn something of the serious side of life.

One of his toughts was that there’s nothing more important than external apparances, so sometimes in the evening when he got back from work he would start using scarps from the mundane umbrella production, and he designed, extravagant couture creations,draping theme on a 15-inch wooden doll.

In those days he was celebrateted like the liberator of women.

He collaborated  with the great art collector and connoisseur Jacques Doucet .

In 1901 after he’s military service, he was employed by the brother Which lead the fashion house of his time. It didn’t go very well, they didn’t give him buoyancy and another chance.

In 1903 Poiret  had his first fashion salon.  After 3 years he  was already a star,he was recognized in the street and in restaurants ,and the whole paris  thronged to his parties.

He knew how to surround himself with the most talented illustrators,painters and designers like Paul Iribe , Georges Lepape, Erte ,Mariano Fortuny and many more.

In 1930 he made  his autobiography ”I DRESSED MY EPOCH”.

Actually in this period there were a lot of those in the fashion firmament that were rising like Coco Chanel. So Poiret made his mind that he had to create something in contradiction of the corset, like creating a garment that will surprise every one. Infact he was considering to divide the female body into two a heavy bosom at the front and a jutting derriere at the back.

Inspired by the Art Nouveau and the 18th century directoire style, he designed  a simple narrow robe with a long skirt that began below the bust and fell shathlike to the floor In a straight line ,(the "reform dress")with this design that he created , made him immortal!

 He chose the name of “LA VAGUE” for the garment because it swirled around the body like a gentle wave.

Poiret didn’t replace only the corset doing movable, looser garment and flowing silhouette, he used strong colors and bold patterns instead of washed-out pastels shades and festoons. 

He regularly raised the waistline and the bust as well; the décolletage got lower and the skirts body-hugging.

He also made skin-colored for men and women.

In the 1910 Paul invented “THE HOBBLE SKIRT”, which was tapered to such a tight hemline that it forced its wearer to take the tiny steps of a geisha. He said” I have liberated their upper body, but I’m trying their feet”, but it didn’t work for the women, his hobble skirt the” JUPE ENTRAVEE” did not catch on.

Poiret forced his slaves to wear caftans ,kimonos, pantaloons,tunics, veils, and turbans, they were colorful embroidery, lace interwoven with golden and silver, splendid brocades, fringed borders, pearls, and rare plumages.

. 

 Everyone was obsessed with Orient  since the performance of the Ballets Russes in Paris in 1909-1929.

 It was a Russians company of dancers , the director of this company was Serghei Diaghilev

He travelled all over the world, he was inspired by everything that he saw.

He became the first couturier to develop his own perfume before Coco Chanel.

In 1911 Paul created another scandal doing pantaloons gown. 

The same year he opened an arts school where Raoul Dufy’s artistic designs were printed straight onto the finest silk; this represented a revolution in the textile industry.

He died poor and forgotten in 1944, but his work contributed to keeping fashion alive

He wasn’t anymore a couturier but a real designer of the 20th centuary. 

  Designer of this decade:

 Mariano Fortuny

Jacques Doucet

Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Paquin

Idols of Decade:

Sarah Bernhardt

Isadora Duncan

Mata Hari

Eleonaora Duse

Claire Waldoff

Else de Wolfe