1910s-1920s

The style used in those days is all inspired from the early 1900.

Many moments were uninvolved in the time of WWI,http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zXKaNuXQMI

falling of the Titanic,http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCy5WQ9S4c0

Ballet Russes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QDEjSLuLvo and the snatch of The Mona Lisa picture. http://www.jecky.it/Leonardo%20da%20Vinci,%20La%20Gioconda-Monna%20Lisa.jpg

MENSWEAR:

Apparently, first the men were the ones that portrayed the Hercules silhouette,so they had an extravagant chest.

Their coats were really long; they could arrive at the length of 30 inches, having a slit at the back like the orchestral director’s jacket, frock coat, blazers; trying to have younger and fitted look appearing long and slim.

And the dinner jacket they had to put it only in the evening.

The men were really presentable and often dressed in a posh way; some may say they had an outfit for every occasion.

With this type of clothing they started to put hugest hats that was wore in events.

A revolution came in fashion during the Ballet Russes and the WWI.

From the first performance that they have in Paris,subdued colors and delicate pastel shedes ,ladylike resrve and youthful modesty were swept away from the whirlwind of movement,color and intoxicating splendor.

Serghei Diaghilev was not only in charge of the decr and costumes of the Russian Ballet , but also of fashion and make up.

In the meantime the WWI events changed in a cursory and dramatic way…

 It was normal that men started to be marketed in the military high waist effect, for who that were coming back from the war and coming back home.

Waistcoat lost the high collar giving a kind of relief and high button shoes. 

What was also fashionable was the high faulting vest, that was really fitting and nifty with a lot of long lapels on it.

 

 In 1919 the waist-seam coat was presented with one button with straight front with squared or sharp corners. 

The trousers, had narrower cut  at the waist and finish at the ankle.  They were cuffed, and creased on both the front and back. 

In sport, the Norfolk jacket ruled the youth. This was a lot together with knickers, heavy wool hose and a tweed cap, it was also regularly paired with white flannel trousers and a straw boater for summer evenings. This was worn during some sports like hunting bicycle etc..

WOMANSWEAR:

Also women had their changes marking the new period as something exceptional.

First it was apparently based on the corset in the 90s for the spine and the abdomen, but slowly going forward it started to going more in the natural form, so they can live better without struggling.

British and American women keep on fighting for their liberty and votes ,not only in the 1970 movement but also on the suffragettes movement.

As you  can see the Titanic(1912) film show how  the woman dresses were.

From 1895 to 1914 fashion were generally beautiful, and the era was reputed by the French La Belle Époque which means the beautiful time.   

During the WWI women started to do men’s work, so they were supposed to think about dresses that were more practical and less restrictive. But the evening dress was still beautiful but simple. 

Therefore in the 1915 the hemlines  of their dresses were not more longer but it started to have the hem at the level of the mid-calf, because working womans need to be free of movement, there were go together with black stockings and long boots.

Many designers brought military references on their dresses; that collection like the colour khaki on it.

1916 Conde Nast proposed a British edition of NY constructed on fashion magazines “VOGUE” to raise up the moral.

in the same period, the bra that  goes from the busrt to the bodice develoved and was born. http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/marlies-dekkers/

After the War the women voted in the 1918 and US women in the 1920.

So during the war everybody was putting behind fashion, like losing the fitting it was imperious, people were comfortable in the outfits of those days. Values, manner, mores and fashion changed in good .
 

MADEMOISELLE CHANEL

Gabrielle Chanel was born on August 19,1883 in Saumur.

In her adolescence, she was first put in an orphanage, and at the ege of maturity she went to a college for ladies.

At the edge of 25 she met Etienne Balsan and she became his mistress.

Chanel during all her passed experiences, she came to a conclusion that could help her earn some money. She convince Balsan to let her use his bachelor apartment in Paris, and she opened a hat studio.

Arthur Capel was the love of her life,that died in the 1919.

Is the one who also financed the money needed for her move to the street In paris; which was to become associated with her name for the rest of the century ”Rue Cambon”.

In the summer 1913 she opened a boutique in Deauville and then after 2 years, she opened one in Biarritz.  

Her jersey tunics, flannel blazers and straight skirts were the newest thing on the beach walkways. 

Her linen summer dresses and the first Chanel ensemble ,ankle-length skirt ,three-quarter length jacket with a fabric belt,blouse teamed with the lining material.

It wasn’t Gabrielle who libered the female body from the corset but it was Mariano Fortuny and Paul Poiret.

But her plans was to remove the corset from the mind of women so she was thinking to bring something innovative.

In the 1926 she created a simple straight  dress in black crepe de Chine. Vogue called it “ Ford of Fashion”.

1921 she prosed her own perfume “ Chanel n. 5”.

She died on January the 10th, 1971.

Coco Chanel was a conservative revolutionary, a coquettish  moralist, feeling like a woman while live like a man.