The 20s was nicknamed the “ANNEES FOLLES”, where after
experiencing the horror of the war, people wanted to enjoy them self.
It was the post-war optimism, brand-new influences, jazz bands, modern
sportswear, clothes were worn casually, youth started to live away from their
parents, creation of the automobiles, make up, telephone, radio, telegraph etc…
As the society was going forward, fashion did it as well.
This Period was a strong influence in the modernsportwear.
Jean Patou after the WWI sets up his own fashion. He was successful with
folkloric embroideries and Art Nouveau designs in strong colours.
He became famous for his tennis clothes that he made for Suzanne
Lenglen. Her outfit was made with pleated skirts of white silk and straight
with cardigans and the headband which was inimitable part of the fashionable
world of tennis. But he failed at the first attempt.
Then when he combined the
Art Deco and the cubism brought
him to his own style, which incorporated their strong lines, clear colours and
geometric shapes.
He was also really concentrated about the way the material felled,
since he wanted to produce simply and softly flowing garments .This concern hit
him and became the first real designer of sportswear, which had an austere
silhouette and comfortable cut.
In 1922 Victor Marguerite published the” La Garconne”.
The book was censored as being pornographic, since it described women
that have short haircut, free love, made careers for themselves, wore men’s
clothes and short skirts, alcohol, use of androgyn etc..
In the 1925 the skirts started to be below the knee, and in the 1927 for
the first time was arose the knee.
For the first time in history of fashion the evening dress were short as
the daywear. Transparent materials were used, trimmed at strategic points with
glass beads or silk fringes Legs were worn with skin stockings that was made
with new artificial silk.
The flapper girls arrived, they could dance all the night. They
were draped around the body, those with style held them closed with one
hand, though coats were often having one large button for this purpose. The
shawl collar and wide cuffs, if not the whole coat, were usually
made of hirsute pelt.
There was also the start of drawing shoes for dancing.
The same style of the feminineness was used in the Hollywood films,
while the men’s they were trying to compete with the movie look.
There were also the trend of the vamped look that supposed to have dark
eye make-up, hide the brow and the forehead with a ribbon, band, hat or a thick
fringe.
The 2 women that brought this look were Theda Bara and Pola
Negri.
After some time ladies started to were flowing dresses that were
presented by Madeleine Vionnet and affected by the cubism movement.
MADELEINE VIONNET
Madeleine vision took a while, because of the importance of the
pants, also in Hollywood glamour .
Madeleine invented the bias cut and elaborating draping.
She was born in 1876, she left school at the ege of 12. When she was 20
she managed the studio of London clothes manufacturer Kate O’ Reilly.
In the 1900 she worked for Callot Soeurs, in Paris.
Vionnet worked like a sculptor in order to achieve aims. Instead of
drawing the design first she created them on a miniature wooden , which allowed
her to drape the material around the body ,to see how it suite the figure
curves. This helped her to develop the bias cut. It wasn’t easy to put Vionnet
dresses on , because of her cut was so strange and unusual. The second uncommon
element was the material that she used: like silk crepe, mousseline, velvet,
and satin.
1918 her suppliers, Bianchini-Ferier, developed their own material
for her.
Rosalba crepe ,made of silk and acetate, was one of the first synthetic materials.
Rosalba crepe ,made of silk and acetate, was one of the first synthetic materials.
Vionnet wasn’t really concerned with the colours, she
usually used the shades of white , she favoured embroidery or
stylized roses or knots as embroidery as decoration.
She always paid
attention that the ornament will not weigh the dress down; the embroidery
was supposed to with the grain of the material so it would follow the
movement of the body. The women who liked to dance, they wanted fringe
trimming, and she was the first to apply each trand of the silk
fringe individuially, instead of applying it by yard, so it will reserve the
elasticity. Her fashion house was closed in 1939.
Also there were cubism (1909-1921) influenced impressionist and
post impressionist.
by paul cezanne Mont Sainte-VictoireDate Painted:1904 - 1906
Size:64 x 81cm (25¼ x 32")
Current Location: Philadelphia Museum of Art
Size:64 x 81cm (25¼ x 32")
Current Location: Philadelphia Museum of Art
In 1925 exhibition of decorative art was detained in Paris, new modern
contemporary movement rise up, doesn’t exists curves, like the constructions
and edifices were straight and rectangular and simple, in
fact “Art Deco “ came from its own name( decorative art).The impacts also came in fashion as well.
MEANSWEARM
Men started to get a new style of wearing the “Oxford bags” announced by the Oxford University, were high waist and really loose fitting.
The Gigolos men coming from south America origins, came in vogue that
were challenge the English men’s, there were having dark short hair throwing it
backward, impeccable tails and trousers in good condition of pressing.
WOMANSWEAR
The tea gowns decreased, because women started to prefer cocktail
dresses instead of that, it arose in Paris collection, t hat supposed to be embroidered or beaded. http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Wedding/1930s_weddings/1930dressstyles.jpg
THE WALL CRASH STREET
We have 2 circumstances one happened in 1929 and another in 2007,
but we are interested about the facts in this period.
This episode ended the innovative time of life of the 20s.
It happened on the 24 of October 1929,”THE GREAT WALL STREET CRASH” in
the US, the worst thing that could happen to the stock market, succeeding of
the 10 year Great Depression.
Taking into account the duration of the Stock Market Crash; it lead
into affecting all the Western industrialized countries, making it succeed and
not end in the United States until the beginning of America’s
mobilization of World War II- 1941.
This lead in the unemployment of millions on
people as the bank employed thousands of people.
Women started to saw their own clothes to economize and saving money,
there were an increasing number of borrowing money to buy more merchandise; the
figures rose up making thousands of people starting to invest in the stock
market.
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